Wiring help please

[Andy_C]

So that black wire you have pointed at in the diagram is the +ve wire to the coil and rear lamp by the looks of it.

At least you know the coil is OK.

[sidewaysid123]

Andy, I have now got a brand new coil, but yesterday I discovered something alarming, with all the wires connected (apart from that black) still no spark, I sat down facing the now installed points and decided to meter it all out, and to my astonishment with the points open there was still a circuit through them ? I actually removed the points, put some paper between them and tested again, no circuit, so I carefully reinstalled them, and before I put the wire back to the condenser I checked them whilst open and they were fine, but when I put the green back to the condenser it made the circuit again (that green goes straight to the coil) so I took it off the condenser and put my meter on it, and then onto the green of the coil and as I expected I got a circuit, keeping my probe on the green from the condenser I tested the black, and bugger me I got a circuit, I was pushed for time to go somewhere and had to leave it at that, but first I think the coil is still faulty, or is it the black? as I drove away I thought about the black going to the coil, it comes from that straight connector block on the frame below the seat and the black that causes the fuses to blow is piggyback on it, I wonder if it could be earthing in that bloody block, there is another black from the other side of the block going to the rear light but I totally disconnected all those heading to the rear lights and indicators. I am heading off to work in 5 mins, but later I am pulling that connector block apart, and maybe fit the new coil too, then test again.

[sidewaysid123]

Eureka, well it was the black wire in some ways, one black from the coil and the bare wire (which when connected blew the fuse)were joined into a spade connector and this went into that black terminal block, it was the 2nd one from the end, in the end was the brown which is of course earth, bugger me I had no idea that inside the terminal block the connections are linked together in two's , so I was putting the black from the coil to earth, so whoever had this bike before I bought it must have been messing around with the connectors at the black box, I have taken it off and prized it apart, I suppose I will get a replacement, but does anyone have a decent drawing of the connections with colours, the manual I have is murder to follow having to count down the lines of cables to see what colour you need. Anyway it is running, the front light works, the neutral indicator works, and I have had a light working at the back, but unsure as to the right combination of colours, mostly black and what I thought was white is actually a poor looking grey, the rear indicators are trash and the rear light is too, my main concern now is whether or not it is charging? how's the best way to check for a charge? I am so pleased I have it at least running and some lights working, should be easy peasy from here on.

[Blurredman]

Taken from my FTP...

MZ_TS250-1977-Official_Service_Manual.pdf

(5.1 MiB) Downloaded 211 times

[sidewaysid123]

yes I have that diagram, but I was hoping for one showing that bloody black terminal block with double spades and what colour wires go in one side and what colour come out.

[Andy_C]

Great news Sid.

One way of checking for a charge, is to put your multimeter accross the battery and check the voltage, then fire the bike up and rev to around 3000 you should see the voltage accross the battery increase.

On my 6volt system TS the voltage rises to a little over 7 volts, so if yours is a 12 volt system, I would expect to seem something like 13 - 13.5 volts.

Alternatively connect you multimeter on the Amps range in the +ve line to the battery (+ve multimeter wire to battery +ve terminal) and -ve to the lead going to the battery.

With the engine running you need to see some current flowing into the battery, ideally you need an old 0 centre ammeter in line - will show a discharge with ign on, and charge with engine running if the charging system is working.

Let us know what you find.

[sidewaysid123]

Andy, I made a short video of it running for my mate and when I came home I was reading about charging and realized the red light in clock should go out, so not charging, I need to check that DF+ and DF-. then it's the back light and indicators.

[Andy_C]

Doh ! Why did I not think about the light in the speedo - bleedin obvious.

Mine goes out at anything over 2000 RPM.

Sometimes dynamoes lose their polarity and dont charge - not sure exactly what the term is, but it is covered in the workshop manual.

Basically you have to re polarise it by flashing the battery accross terminals in a particular manner and for a very short period of time.

As you say check the DF+ and - first.

[Gerryman Ts125]

To remove the ignition-lights switch. look underneath it, (dependant on model) there should be two slot-headed screws, remove these. And you should be able to hold the switch in your hand and turn it upsidedown, or remove a very small slotheaded screw right at the front under the shiney silver bit that covers the light switch unscrew the silver bit ( with the black sliding part should come off revealing two slotheaded screws.
Spyglass at the ready. Ready to investigate, your problem.

I too had this problem, it turned out to be the small black Mainbeam flasher switch on the lefthand handlebar was touching to earth. And one of the lightswitch wires had bared and was touching to earth too.

Unscrewed the light switch one cut it, re-atttched it to the screw tightened it. The mainbeam flashing button, I had to re solider it back on and isolate it with some plastic wrap.

[sidewaysid123]

We are charging....I read the leaflet that I got with the solid-state regulator and did as it said with the DF+ and DF- but it didn't charge, so I swapped them around, and hey presto it charges, I think it was pumping over 7 volts in, what a relief, so I have turned my attention to the rest of the bike, I am putting a new backlight and rear indicators on (hope my wiring plan is successful, I thought I better check the gearbox oil, so I drained the old oil, there was no more than a bloody eggcup in it, I hate it when people let things get so bad, I mean if there wasn't a leak it should have more in. So I have put 750cc of gear oil in, I free'd off the choke lever, discovered that the brake light switch in the rear hub is knackered, the horn too, but I am getting there, I must be mad because I am trying to get my 1929 Triumph CSD built, so I can do the Banbury on it (see pic) thank you all who helped me, I will be back. Oh yeds one small thing, a bloke in my village told me that his Mum is the treasurer for the MZ club, is that this club, or are there others around?

[Andy_C]

Sid - this is the MZ Riders club: https://www.mzridersclub.com/

"I think it was pumping over 7 volts" so yours is a 6 volt dynamo then, the battery voltage on mine goes to 7volts or just over when charging.

[sidewaysid123]

Andy...C . I have just paid to join, when I had an MZ in the 70s I went all over the Country on it with my Girlfriend, Jesus she must have loved me to come along ah ah ah ah. Today I figured out the indicators and rear light, am waiting for a new rear lamp, 2 new indicators, a new horn, flat bars, a black connector block, and some bulbs and a bar end mirror, I put it on my insurance today, so off we trot .........

[Andy_C]

All over the country 2 up on an MZ - Jeez.

The only reason I sold my old ETZ was that after doing a couple of long runs on it - 90 miles or thereabouts each way It was uncomfortable, should have just kept it and made the seat a bit more comfortable, guess with an MZ Skorpion 2 up riding would be a bit more practical - I also had one of those for a while, but that is another story.

When I bought my TS it came with a bunch of old MZ Club magazines, it never ceases to amaze me the distances some people travel on these bikes, I have no plans for long distance riding on mine, 40 / 50 miles yes, but not hundreds.

Good luck with your Triumph build - I have had the pleasure of owning just about every capacity of Triumph Twin built over the years, I rode T140's for years as they were my favourite twin. I also had a T150 & T160, with the T160 being my all time favourite bike.

[sidewaysid123]

Finally I have the bike working as it should be, thanks to all who advised me on electrical problems, I would like to add a rear carrier does anyone know who produces them ? also the 6 volt indicator bulbs, what should be the wattage, mine are so weak.

[Andy_C]

Sid - well done, looks pretty tidy.

Indicators - I think mine has 6v 21w bulbs in them, but could be wrong, easy enough to source from E-Bay, you will of course have to use the correct wattage to suit the flasher unit.