TS250 5 SPEED

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[Blurredman]

When I had my first ETZ, I originally had lots of problems with the carb that even now I don't understand. Initially it wouldn't move under 3k rpm, and various rebuilding of it seemed to give different results. One such example was after putting it together it was running so rich it didn't manage to go around the block before fouling the plug. I rebuilt it again and I got it back to the running as before. I recall that I felt that that was the best it was going to be... Until one day I crashed and the bike went down the road on its right side 20 yards.. but something had changed because as soon as I got on it and rode away it's lower (<3k) torque was suddenly there and since then it was a lot easier to ride at lower revs..
What I'm saying is that all you can do sometimes is just keep rebuilding the carb.

Other things you could think of is the spark plug a cold grade? Are you sure the air filter blocked isn't blocked? See what happens when you run without it? I'm not sure if you've said that you've changed the sparkie? I mean, not only have I fixed similar issues with using a hotter (b7 NGK as opposed to b8) but I have had a lot of issues with spark plugs overall that have lasted a very short time. If you were close I would come and have a look

Definitely double check the choke rubber. Good luck!

[Andy_C]

So that's the answer - throw the bike down the road

On the first ETZ that I bought the choke rubber came off and it took me a long time before I found that out !!

I have taken the choke rubber out and you can see that it has been turned over at some point in time - one side is badly worn, and the indentation that is in the side facing the choke tube does not match the size of the choek tube, any way the rubber is ver very hard.

Ill order a new rubber and try that, if that fails then carb apart again, and if that fails I'll see if I can chuck it 20 yards down the road

[DAVID THOMPSON]

one lesson i learned on old bikes is some times the ignition system is weak

friend of mine installed a home made system that just used the points
in a 1960's BMW 500
with a hot spark most of his carb problems went away

dave

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[Andy_C]

Good news.

After much kicking / swearing / investigating, I found out that the choke was not shutting off properly, now that is fixed the engine seem to run fine.

Had it running for a good 10 minutes with no issues, next step is to take it out and get it properly warmed up and tune the carb in.

It revs really cleanly and cant hear any piston slap.

Things are looking good again

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[Andy_C]

Still running way too rich, air screw has to be open at least 3.5 turns for it to keep running without fouling the plug.

On the road you can feel it is way too rich despite the needle being set in the top groove - needle at it's lowest.

Might try a 130 main instead of the 135 which it currenly has, but starting to suspect he air filter - it looks clean, but no idea how old it is - do they degrade with age?

May just see how it runs if I pop the filter out.

I'll get there in the end.

[Blurredman]

Yes.. See how it runs briefly without the filter. The TS has to have the easiest filter removal ever..

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[Andy_C]

Not sure what to make of this.

Take the filter off, it is a pig to start, it will not start with the air screw any more than 1.5 turns out which is understandable.

When it starts it will run, but very badly - again understandable, however after a few minutes it will stop, due to the plug being fouled.

So it appears that it is still running very rich even with the filter removed.

As I have said, timing is spot on, I have tried several different spark plugs, everything relating to carb checks out as OK- jets and needle are new, as you know new crank seals have been fitted, might try a new air filter for what it is worth. Fuel is new and mixed 50:1.

If a new filter fails to fix it, then I will probably give up and call time on the bike.

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[Blurredman]

Are you able to smell what is the spark plug oil? Does it smell like transmission oil in the crank? I would still wonder if that little rubber disc between the crankcases is missing/disintegrated?? But I don't think that would be sufficient enough to foul the sparkie to stop it running full stop. Most 2t's can still run fine with transmission oil seal leaks.

[dave47]

Have you checked if one or both of the carb floats are leaking? Take them off and shake them. See if they sink or float in a bowl of petrol. Have you checked if the float valve is actually working by taking the bowl off and holding the floats up?

[Andy_C]

@Dave - yes I have checked that, no leaking floats, valve shuts off.

Going to try a new air filter and going down one size in main jet to a 130, not that the main should make much difference.

I have never had a problem like this before with any previous bike, I have always got them to run.

This is just so frustrating.

It pains me to say but If I dont manage to get it running then someone is going to get a bargain on E-Bay.............