Clutch - ES 250/2

[TJBERGLI]

Hi,
the clutch on my ES 250/2 is a little bit slippy when reving hard. So I think its time to change the friction plates, or is there any adjustment posibilities other than the clutch cable? Do I need any special tool to change just the frition plates?

[Blurredman]

What kind of oil are you using? Have you tried a thicker oil, that is perhaps mineral based and not synthetic?

Have you taken the engine clutch cover off and checked the 'tell tale' gap with the spec in the book?


Yes, you will need a specific clutch puller to take the clutch basket off the crank. It must be the smaller cylindrical type and not the 3/4 armed spider looking puller, they can cause damage to the clutch basket unit and possibly other things!! The clutch needs to be gently coerced into coming off the crank.. Not pulled off like some sort of offensive object!

[TJBERGLI]

The oil is 15-40 semi-synthetic motorcycle-oil for wet-clutch. I know the book says gearoil GL60, but that isn't easy to find. Or gearoil SAE 80, or engineoil SAE 40... My Jawas should also have gearoil according to their book, but max GL 3 because of the additives. Not easy to find that either, so I and many others uses 20-50 motorcycleoil on Jawas. But since the book says SAE 40 for the MZ, I went with the 15-40....

"Have you [...]checked the 'tell tale' gap with the spec in the book?" NO! Explain, please? Is there I way to check the wear of the friction plates without dismanteling the clutch? I have never openend the clutch-side of the engine (but I have only had the bike for 3 months)

Tor Johan

[Blurredman]

Okay.

I used to get clutch slip on my clutches when I used the EP (that's all I could get) EP80/90- GL4.

I have taken to using 20w50 mineral these days though because I often have that lying about and I don't really notice any slip as such. I thought at the time that Semi-synthetic would be the wa to go, but i think even that could be too slippery for the clutch sometimes in engaging situations..


The clutch unit itself is in it's own single (once constructed) unit that allows it to be taken off the crank in a single unit. It contains the plates, the carrier and the push plate that seperates the clutch plates. At the bottom end of the clutch (crank side when on the engine) there are 5-6 supporting arms if you will. The back unit is the item which pushes towards the engine in order to engage (or disengage?- Always tricky decision to decide which..) the clutch. These arms also allow you to measure the resting gap between the two sections of the clutch and therefore tell if the plates are worn sufficiently to denote replacement.

I have the official service manual for the ES250 Here:

ftp://blurredmanswebsite.ddns.net/Vehic ... Manual.pdf

You can find talk of the clutch on page 34. You don't have to dismantle the clutch to figure out the wear indicators, but you do certainly have to take the clutch cover off the engine.

[TJBERGLI]

Thanks for your explaination. I'll take the clutch cover of next time I change the engine oil, and try to figure out whats wrong and what to do. It's fully drive able as it is, so I won't digg to deep at the moment. The bike has done 22 000 km, and I dont know if there has been done anything to the clutch. So friction plates in the shelve is may be not a bad idea....

I've allready been to your website, downloaded the manual and even printed it. Thanks