There's a lot more to "reading plugs" than just looking at them. You need to do a "plug chop"
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/carb/plugchop.htm (this link talks about doing a chop to read the main jet at WFO). To modify for your issue, you'd get into 5th gear and ride in the trouble-zone for about 30 seconds, then chop (it's important to hit the kill, clutch and close the throttle at the exact same time), come to a stop and remove the plugs. I've never heard of anyone cutting the plugs open before, that's completely unnecessary ~ you can see just fine with sunlight.
If you simply remove the plugs after a normal ride, you're reading Mostly what's going on for the last 30 seconds... typically idling or slow-speed stuff, but it'll be muddled and mixed with ALL the running conditions the plugs have ever encountered. This is why the first few steps in the link are important.
It's a convoluted and complex process, mostly forgotten (it's tuning knowledge I learned 16 years ago from a guy who is probably now dead) and what little people do remember isn't doing much good.
As for your actual issue, I have no experience with the Muz carbs (I'm here doing research as there's on for sale near me, I'm hoping it sells soon so the temptation to buy goes away.. heh), but that would Normally be a condition that's addressed by a deceleration circuit. What's happening is that as you close the throttle you're creating a lean condition (cylinder is still creating a low pressure that allows a fuel-mix to be drawn in), causing the backfire. I'd read somewhere else on here that it's normal for these bikes with the stock car too, so I'm thinking there isn't a decel circuit on the carbs. It's not an issue that a change in the main jet would address:
You're looking at adjusting the air/fuel mix screw, or Possibly going up on a pilot jet (cleaning it first ~ just a chemical won't clean it like just swishing with mouthwash won't clean your teeth, you need something to physically abrade the gunk, copper wire is safe as it won't damage the brass jets) which Might also require other changes such as going in on the air/fuel mix and/or lowering the CV needle as it affects the whole fuel delivery range.
I have *no* clue how the dual-carb setup works, splitting the duty of delivering fuel, but carbs all do the same essential job.
Good luck.