The TS arrangement with the timing-cam and bolt means it's not easy to use a timing disk and/or strobe - better to use a micrometer tool and dial it in...
...and all it will cost you is a dead sparkplug and an M6 bolt
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Homemade_timing_toolI used old oil-fouled B7HS and a spring from a bottle of soap (one with a pump) for the timing tool. You'll need quite a long bolt because the TS combustion chamber is a way from the top of the piston. You can easily set your timing to 2.5mm BTDC because M6 bolts have 1mm pitch threads. The process is straightforward:
1. Unscrew the top nut on the tool so the bolt rides up and down as you rotate the crank.
2. Find TDC - this is is where the bolt just starts moving back down after poking up to its maximum.
3. At the TDC point, spin the nut down until it's just flush with the top of the timing tool.
4. Mark on the nut/tool with a sharpie, then back it off two and a half turns from that mark.
5. Rotate the crank backwards (counterclockwise turn using the cam bolt) SLOWLY until the nut *just* kisses the top of the tool. This is 2.5mm BTDC. Adjust your points plate until they just about open - use a multimeter set to 'continuity' or with a test-lamp - the beep/lamp should go off as you adjust the points mounting plate. (You might have to disconnect the condenser for your multimeter to beep correctly)
6. Screw the plate down, then find TDC again.
7. Adjust your points gap using the eccentric screw for a gap of 0.3 to 0.4mm - bigger gap will advance the timing but can give you a slightly bigger spark. Easiest to set the gap at TDC. You'll probably want to repeat the timing after you set the gap, just in case. The TS is supposed to be independent gap and advance, but they can still interact a little, doesn't hurt to check.
(8. Don't forget to reconnect your condenser like I did last time
)
And that's it! See how it runs - if she runs hot, or lacks power at the low-end revs, you can shave a little off the timing. Don't run it too advanced (no more than 3mm BTDC and 0.4mm gap) or it'll run too hot and you'll seize.
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PS: How did reassembling the gearbox go?