Winter storage info please

[Gobsheen]

Hi,
First of all, I'm not really a hardened all-year rider. I'm probably done with commuting until the spring starts to kick in. The question is, what are the best things to do with my 660 to prepare, and do over winter with the bike? i.e. should I be draining fuel, should I let the engine run until the last bit of petrol has run through the carb, or should I leave fuel in and start every week etc etc?

[den]

hi. I asked this very same question a couple of years ago and was met with a wall of silence,,( did i say something wrong?),,no,, i think its one of the questions that can only be answered by yourself , wheres the bike being stored, how are you going to protect it from the elements,,This is what i do that suits me ,

I put my bike in a secure shed at the top of the garden,,its protected from frost ,rain and snow
I jack the bike up on a stand and connect the battery to a oxford trickle charger,check the water for %60 antifreeze and top up if necessary,
I have a list of all the things i want to do with the bike over the winter ,,ie , breaks,forks,lights exc,( this year theres only riser rubber renewal)
Ill sorn the bike so i don't have to tax it , insurance is always upto date,its always locked up with ingersoll rand locks and chain,tracker credit is topped up.
For when it gets really cold ill wrap it up in a duvet,and bike cover,
most nights ill visit the bike just for the free smile it gives me,lol.
now then , I DO NOT RUN THE BIKE,,contrary to what others think i personally do not run the bike , i believe in cold weather running the bike to warm it up only encourages condensation to form in the engine and around the clutch components when its cooling,,if anything ill pull the plug and turn it over for a minute,This will recoat the internals with oil and allow the battery to recharge..
so to summarize
protect the bike from the elements and just look out for it , use the winter months to get it looking good for the new summer

[Gobsheen]

Thanks Den,
I never thought to explain some of my basics. It'll be in the garage, on a trickle charger. I'll jack it up on the paddock stands. Jobs to do inc brakes, service, work out some electrical niggles, recover the seat & work out why the hell only one of my girlie heated grips works!
What's your thoughts on fuel? Drain? Run the carb dry?

[MichaelTorre]

Don't start the bike .... condensation woes.

Use a fuel stabilizer. Generously. Run to get in carb.
Top up the tank to the rim. Put tape over the vent.
No tank rust.

Cap the carb vent. No corrosion in bowl.

Charge once a month battery. Do not boil dry.
Better to take it in here. We get to -20°F.

Wax paint.
Mist a light oil over alloys and steel .....AVOID rubber.

For more than 3 months it's best if you fill cylinder with oil.
At the LEAST be sure the motor is on compression stroke so no moisture will
get in open valves or intake ports.

Protect the best you can from sudden and drastic temperature swings. Condensation woes.

Picky. You bet I am after 27 years of fixing peoples
I shoulda, woulda, coulda
Water is merciless.
M-

[arry_b]

I drain the tank on my Skorp, not wanting to leave ethanol in the tank unnecessarily. I actually remove the tank and store it indoors once it's have a time to vent and doesn't smell of fuel any longer. That's more to stop it getting scratched, than for any other reason.

The carbs, I drain by running the bike until the bike stalls, then undoing the drain screw on the L/H carb and removing the brass plug on the R/H carb. After a day or two to give the carbs time to vent I reattach the plug and tighten the screw.

Then I spray some oil spray up the end of the exhaust and plug the end to stop condensation getting to the exhaust valves. The air intake under the tank gets removed, and a good spray of light oil goes on the engine side of the air filter, then the cover goes back on with the vent holes plugged with oily rags - keeps the spiders out.

I also flush the brakes with new fluid so that the calipers and master cylinders don't sit with moist fluid in them causing them to corrode internally.

The battery comes out, and it gets some exercise by either running it in my ETZ over winter or by running a 12V lead light for half an hour then trickle charging it every couple of months or so.

I finally take the battery out of the clock so that it doesn't corrode the connectors if it goes flat.

The whole bike then gets a tin of WD40 / FS365 sprayed over the metal parts, and the bike covered in a loose fitting cover in the corner of the garage.

[Gobsheen]

Thanks guys. Good info there which hopefully others will find useful too. Maybe there are some other thoughts out there? We could turn this into the go to thread for winter preparation?

[Glidd]

Lots of good advice, I use ACF 50 spray on everything metal and in all switches, fuel stabiliser, and permanent connection to an Optimate charger. I do take the bikes out through winter as long as there is no salt on the roads

Dave

[MichaelTorre]

I routinely use a synthetic non oxidising spray lube on
all the switches, so no prep there.

I have never thought of capping the exhaust.....
Suppose it would be good if it is hot and dry
when you cap.

I overinflate rubber by 15%. Some guys I know deflate by 25%.

I want them to stay round. They want to not stretch the tires.
I am up in the air on that one.

M-