Correct Tool ?

[MichaelTorre]

Taking the clutch off of my TS250 was quite-the-chore.
I borrowed a big 3 jaw that was new, 7 ton capacity and it took all
I had to crank in the torque to get it to pop. ( bang, actually).

Now I find you MZ folk use a threaded tube and a bolt.
I only copied the Hands manual.
Could I have damaged the clutch?....... the jaws fit well.
I now see the Kiasers manual uses a tube and bolt arrangement.
M-

[mr_luke]

Hi Michael, I have heard tales of clutch baskets being bent by the use of 'normal' pullers. Hopefully you will have got away with it though. Perhaps it would be worth putting the clutch back on (once you've bought the proper tool to take it back off again with!) and checking that it still runs true, perhaps even using a dial guage if you have one? If you do turn out to need to replace it, I [i/]believe[/i] the ES 250, four speed TS 250, Supa 5 and all the 'big' ETZs, Saxons and Kanunis all share the same clutch, so the bits shouldn't be too difficult or expensive to find.

[stogadog]

The proper puller is only about a tenner from the MZ shop or there are usually a few on ebay. Be worth investing in one

[therealche]

I am sure that the puller for the ES is different to the one for the ETZ... think the TS uses the same one as the ES.

[MichaelTorre]

thanks for pointing out the possibility of damage.
Hidden damage can be a real heart ache if undetected.
Durn manuals used the wrong technique.
I will check for true running.
Michael

[DAVID THOMPSON]

find a deep trash bin for the haynes manuals
i learned this with the one that came with my first bmw over 40 years ago
dave