ELECTRONIC REGULATOR

[LANDSURFER]

I have purchased an electronic regulator from e bay ..wired it as per instructions including doing away with the red wire and guess what ...it dosn't work ...help please ...i also seem to have a redundant black wire?????

[DAVID THOMPSON]

which model bike
i have 3 mz bikes none of them use the same regulator
dave

[LANDSURFER]

THE BIKE IS AN ETZ 250 but the engine number starts 251 it is registered as a d reg ...1986 starts and runs fine ... but i removed the mech reg before i started it ... not good .. and fitted the electronic version .. the bike has been loved in the past ...lots of good mods

[radiograf]

have a look here http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/mods/mod_12vreg.htmlIt may be of help.

[LANDSURFER]

many thanks for the links to the regulator data sheet.
my bikes regulator is wired up as listed in the data sheet ( 3 connections) but does not have the red / red yellow connections as the instructions said the red wire was no longer required .....

and just in case im chasing my tail here ... how do i measure out put from the altenator. I am new to the world of wiggley amps and though i have purchased a milti meter im not sure where to stick my probes .....

[radiograf]

What I usually do is to connect the red lead to +ve in the battery, the black lead to -ve. Switch the meter to the 20volt range and switch it on. It will probably read about 11v, start your engine, the voltage should rise to about 14v. If it drops your not charging.
As an aside I once tried fitting a BMW voltage regulator to my etz251, voltage ran up to 25volts, then all the fuses blew! I eventually replaced my electomechanical one withan electronic one off german ebay that had the same number of connections.

[Trogolodyte]

I take it you have one of those £5 specials...? personally I dont think the saving is worth it

[LANDSURFER]

I take it you have one of those £5 specials...? personally I dont think the saving is worth it

WHAT THE REGULATOR, £32. OR THE MULTIMETRE, £78 ......??????

[radiograf]

This is what I fitted four years ago, http://www.ebay.de/itm/Spannungsregler-Regler-12-Volt-MZ-ETZ-neu-/170876246382?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item27c904996e no problems so far. (Now that sounds like famous last words! )

[LANDSURFER]

thats the problem radiograph ...only 3 connections on mine

[radiograf]

Have you connected the red wire to the red/yellow wire? this is the 12v feed to the battery. You also need to fit a 15amp fuse in this circuit.

[LANDSURFER]

no i have not connected the red and red yellow together , it said in the fitting instructions that the red wire was not required anymore. Where does the other end of the red wire connect to ? this is starting to make some sense now ...thanks

[Norman Wade]

Sorry I hadn't spotted this topic earlier, but I wrote the original article in MZ Rider that http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/mods/mod_12vreg.html is based on. (About 20 years ago! - good to see people are still reading it).
You're nearly there - connect the red and red/yellow wires together through a 15 Amp fuse. The original mechanical regulator had an 'over current cutout' across these two terminals in case of a short circuit, the fuse will have the same effect.
Hopefully, once you've connected these wires, everything should work.
If you look at this wiring diagram: http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/electrics/wir_tz12.html you'll see that the other end of the red wire connects to the battery and the fuse. This is the 'output' of the alternator, which comes into the regulator on pin DF (red/yellow) and passes through this cutout. Pins 61 and D- measure the output voltage of the alternator and the regulator varies the voltage on pin DF to keep the output voltage constant.

Hope this is of some help.


Norman

[radiograf]

Basically it goes like this : 12v alternating current from alternator goes to diode board, where it is converted into direct current. This is then fed into the voltage regulator via the red/yellow wire, which operates the solinoids inside, that adjust the field coils in the alternator to produce the 12v alternating current via the green/black and green/red wires. The brown wire is of course the earth. The red wire feeds the 12v supply from the regulator into the loom hence to the battery. (Confused yet?)
In the electonic version you have fitted , you don't need the contol to the regulator from the diode board, so you can connect the red and red/yellow wires together. Without this there will be no supply to the loom. Don't forget the inline fuse.

[LANDSURFER]

Sorry senior moment .. the red / yellow wire goes to the same fuse connection as the red wire to the battery .... i must have a generator out problem ...