Stalling at the lights

[thomaskwscott]

Hi Guys,

Here are the symptons: I start the bike from cold and ride for about 30 mins, there is no loss of power and when i pull up at the lights it idles nicely. However after about 30 mins of riding when i pull up at the lights it will idle for 1min ish and the stutter, after than it will go for another 30sec then die. It will start straight back up first kick and ride off with no loss of power or other unusual characteristics. But at the next set of lights it will do the same thing. I commute to central London every day and it's getting embarassing to filter past a load of cars only to stall at the lights!

I had this issue about 4 months ago and a new spark plug fixed it but now it'as back!! Any ideas?

Thanks

Tom

[Skorpion]

Hi Tom,

You could try going to a hotter plug, I am thinking that as the weather is now cooler your sparking plug is not now burning the oil off as easily.

[thomaskwscott]

Hi,

That's what i did previously when i swapped a B8HS for a B7HS. Is there an even hotter option?

Thanks

Tom

[thomaskwscott]

p.s. it's got a LOT colder here over the last couple of weeks....

[Skorpion]

Tom

You could try a B6HS that's what came from the factory in my new ETZ 250, or better still the iridium version of the B7HS the BR7HIX.

[thomaskwscott]

Thanks,

I think i've got a B6HS lying around that i'll put in it. I've always wanted to know what the difference with the iridium ones are? are they recommended?

[Skorpion]

Yes I would recommend the BR7HIX, never had to change one out on the road.

Getting the carburetion and ignition right is the key to a smooth reliable engine, on my ETZ the tick over was 800 RPM so no lurching on deceleration, but did occasionally stall while sitting at traffic lights, that's a problem with single cylinder machines, my Skorpion will also cut out now and then slowing down for junctions.

[thomaskwscott]

Hmmm, a lightbulb's just flicked on. The bike used to lurch considerably on deceleration and now that i think of it that has gone away. Unfortuneately i could live with the lurching but not with the cutting out. I'll try the new plug and if that doesn't work i guess some carb tinkering is in order.....

Thanks for all your help.

[DAVID THOMPSON]

with the poor quality gas were being supplied hardly any thing runs very good any more
here in the USA where i live
if nothing else works
try a small shot of octane booster the hot rod car guys use...
just not tooo much and burn a piston top
and get that idle up a bit like at least 950
they sound nice at a slow tick over
but a lot of fellows idle way too slow

bought several /2 1955 to 1969 bmws with bad cranks
from the fellows that thought low speed idle was COOL

dave

[radiograf]

I always use the BPR version of any NGK spark plug in my bikes. The B stands for the plug size, the R for resistor, and the P for projection nose. This means that the porceline is proud of the center of the plug and provides a 'self cleaning' action reducing fouling. The Iridium plugs have a finer center electrode, which supposedly improves fuel combustion, as well as having a lower electical resistence. They certainly seem to be fit and forget in my experience

[thomaskwscott]

Hi Guys,

thanks for all the info. It must be right on the line because it was slightly warmer today and no problems. As another aside should i be able to kick the bike over whilst in gear but having the clutch in? When it stalled yesterday i tried just pulling the clutch in and kicking and it lurched forward, clutch adjustment bad?

Thanks

Tom

[thomaskwscott]

Hi Guys,

A quick update. I ordered both the B6HS and the BR7HIX looking to do a like for like test. However i tried the Iridium one first and am so satisfied with it that i have not even tried the B6. My lights problems have completely gone and i have also noticed a much smoother power delivery.

thanks for all the advice.

Tom

[mirmay]

After following this, I have fitted the irridium plug in my ETZ125. May be psychological, but seemed smoother and more pull in high gear/low speed. It's always (since I've had it - 9 months) been a bit erratic on tickover and temperamental charging light but I just passed this off as typical 2T running as it rode well enough. (the charging light issue was down to a dodgy fuse connection) Anyway, the other night I nipped to the shops and coming home the charging light came on and went off eratically accompanied by loss of power when the light came on. Very intermittent but carried on running well enough to get home. Side panel off and being dark, it was easy to spot one of the fuses arcing slightly in its holder! I replaced the fuse box with one I bought very cheaply at a store called "The Range" and takes 4 "blade" type fuses. I would normally not sully a vehicle with non-gen parts, but this bike is certainly no show-bike and I apologise to any purists I may have offended. Indeed it is sort of evolving,
using the ethos that if I was in DDR in its era I would make-do-and-mend with whatever was at hand in the shed!
The upshot of all this is that it's like having a new bike!!! Smoother tickover, smoother running, easier moving off from stationary, less flickering of lights at tickover. £1.99 well spent methinks.

[radiograf]

Changing for a blade fuse holder is a fairly common modification. I was fortunate enough to have had this done on my ETZ251 by a previous owner, the real plus side is that blade fuses are easier to find than the old ceramic fuse.

[stogadog]

I have put a modern blade type holder on my ES. And a modern regulator to replace the old mechanical one. What does it matter if it's not the original parts? If it helps the bike run properly and makes the enjoyment of a bike better than I don't see an issue with it. I like to think I take really good of my bike but it's for riding more than concourse bores to complain about! And you are right - if we were in the DDR they would be fixed with any old tat to keep em going along in a smoky style!