ETZ 250

[dwc]

Work on the new bike started in earnest on Wednesday.

I went through the electrics and all the lights are now working and the spade connectors cleaned. The only downer being the horn not wanting to honk!

Next week I will be cleaning up the rust areas on the frame. I propose to squirt the insides with WAXOYL and paint the unseen parts with HAMMERITE. Any views about my proposals will be well received.

Also, would it be wise to change the seals I hear mention of and is it a difficult job. IE can I do it with the engine in the frame.

I look forward to your views.

DWC

[Old Dog]

dose the rust with fertan if you can get it before you waxoil it.

Steve

[cheesey]

Crankcase oil seals??
You will need a clutch puller and an m10 x 200mm (if I remember correctly) bolt to remove the rotor. After that its relatively straightforward to change the seals, there's a circlip that comes off with long nosed pliers usually. Then bring the rubber seals out without damaging the crank mating surface nor the cases, usually a well positioned screwdriver can be used to hook them out.
If you have starting, compression issues or the engine oils up then its likely to do with this. You won't lose anything by changing them but gain peace of mind and possibly power...

[Old Dog]

You will also need some tough cordage, I use sash cord to lock the engine. Bring it up to btdc backwards and then feed in as much cordage as you can stuff into the plug hole, this ought to stop it going over compression and will allow you to undo what needs undoing

[Trogolodyte]

Large amounts of cordage down the plug hole is not a good idea, if the end goes into either the exhaust port or worse, one of the transfer ports the piston can chop a peice off and it will either go into the crank case (would need a engine drop and split the cases to retreive) or sit and melt inside your exhaust if nylon or other man made materiel then turn to charcoal as time goes by clogging your exhaust system prematurley coking it up, a couple of inches inside the combustion chamber should be more than enough to lock the motor.

[cheesey]

I found an old sock wedged between the primary gears on the clutch side works well enough with little risk of damage.

[dwc]

Hi,

Some good info.

Ref locking up the engine so that drive train parts can be removed I use a plank of wood braces in the wheel against the swing arm works well.

I don't like the idea of the cord in the barrel or using my old socks( cheesy!!!)

DWC

[cheesey]

That was more a method with the engine removed. If he already has the engine in situ then just applying the rear brake with the bike in gear may well be enough.
An old sock between the primary gears to assist will lock things up nicely though and won't do any damage, have done that a few times with the engine out the bike.

[Skorpion]

Hi dwc,

If the engine runs ok leave the seals alone, why change something that's working ok, I would just check and replace consumables ( spark plug, points, gearbox oil,) then you should be good till the next 3000mile service, and yes Waxoyl, Hammerite, and Fertan are good products,

[dwc]

Thought I would give an update on progress being made.

I have rubbed down the frame well all areas that had rust showing and squirted copious amounts of Waxoyl into every orifice I can find. I have also applied three coates of Hammerite gloss black to the frame , underside of the petrol tank and front mudguard. I now defy Herman the German to rust.

I also rubbed down the spokes and I currently debating whether to paint them silver. Thoughts please on that idea.

While waiting for the paint to dry, rather than watch it doing so, I have stripped the front brake master cylinder. It was badly corroded but has cleaned up a treat. No hammerite this time. Hammer time might come again later.

I also took the opportunity to have a look at the points. Happy days, it appears to be fitted with electronic ignition. The chain and sprocket appear in good condition. I had a scare though when I found I had a loose wire from no where. A little interogation of the Haynes manual established that said wire was from the neutral switch. Sorted.

So what now. I await parts from Burwins. Fingers crossed Herman should be up and running in the next few weeks.

DWC