Stator Capability of an 04 Baggy

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Stator Capability of an 04 Baggy

Postby Randew2U » Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:17 am

I am looking at lighting upgrades and wonder if anyone has determined how much lighting they can handle stock? Has anyone been able to drop in a rewound stator? Thanks
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Postby DEmark » Thu Jul 29, 2004 6:54 am

I was able to run heated grips, and a widder vest and sleeves on my Skorpion (same motor). I think you probably have enough capacity to run any kind of lights you want....
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extra power

Postby DAVID THOMPSON » Thu Jul 29, 2004 10:18 am

hello

replace the rear brake lamp bulb with a led one

this will free up about 15 to 20 watts that can be used other places
also stuff the biggest and best battery you can in the battery box
as it will buffer sudden surges in current flow as you turn them on and
off use relays to turn them on and off not stock bike wires

watch battery voltage if it drops to less than 12volts your pulling too much
current turn something off
:smt006
running them in town at slow speed is not a good idea as charging systems on most bikes dont put out a lot of power till running at 4000 rpm
or better
Dave 2002 MZ RT125+1995 Saxon Tour(500cc)
1997 MZ 660 Traveller+6/13/09 WV USA
"IN the end times the IDIOTS will be in charge
of everything"
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Postby Randew2U » Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:44 pm

Has anyone run dual 55 watt headlamps on their baggy? I am looking at puig and simpsondetour fairings that are incredible. Does anyone know if the stator from the Mastiff is heavier wound for dual headlights, are they 55's or 35's on the mastiff? I have yet to see a baggy outfitted with one of the puig or simpson fairings, which look like neat alternatives to acerbis, UFO and Baja Designs. I would like to get a dual 55W setup and convert it to HID eventually. I wonder if the dual hi/low beam HID conversions for a car will work. Im looking to convert my tail light to a large red LED cluster but I need to add separate white LED lighting for the license plate which is required here in New York State. Im also trying to get one of u guys to sell me a factory fairing laying around and the consider converting the H4 to a hi/lo HID.
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Postby motardina » Sat Oct 09, 2004 1:07 pm

It's a 24 amp alternator and at 12v that puts out about 300 watts of power. 12v figure is conservative since even at idle the voltage should be around 12.6v so even using the full 290 watts you'll have more than 5 amps left to maintain the batt from the .6v remaining.

Just add up the wattages of all the lights and accessories and you'll have the current load--which, for example, should be 132watts total on a stocker baggy. so based on you'd have 158watts left to play with. So no twin hella 8" 100watt driving lights (awwww...) :P but plenty for what most people would want to add, like a couple of 55w driving lights and grip/jacket heat for example.
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Postby Randew2U » Sat Oct 09, 2004 6:45 pm

Thanks much Motardina. Thats what I was hoping to hear. I can run dual 35 Watt HID's One aimed High, one Low. Im thinking on it!
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High out-put stator, and driving lamp install

Postby kerry » Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:06 am

I found a web-site that had hi out-put stators for the Raptor.....anyone know if those will bolt up? Also, I am still trying to find a suitable water proof switch to mount on the bars, or somewhere within reach, and I am open to suggestions as to how to wire the switch, once I get one. I have mounted two 55W driving lamps that are wired to a relay, and have nice heavy guage wire running to them. Problem is, I'm not sure if I want them totaly independent of the headlamp, or if they should be tied in with the high beam? I also e-mailed Odyssey battery to see if they had an application for a Baggie, but they never got back to me.....guess they don't want our business?
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Postby keithcross » Wed Jan 26, 2005 3:00 pm

I have the follpwing electrical mods on my baggi it runs fine.
LED rear light
Additional LED brake light (small with 4 superbright LED's)
Heated grips
More efficient head lamp bulb.
2 55W Driving lamps.

The driving lamps are wired via a relay and come on with main beam only. I have yet to have any problems starting the bike due to a flat battery over teh last 2 winters so the generator seems to be coping well. Last winter the system coped with the standard rear light as well.

Keith
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driving lamps

Postby kerry » Thu Jan 27, 2005 6:56 am

Keith, what did you use for a switch on your driving lamps, and how did you wire it up? I'm trying to do the same thing, and am not a real genious when it come to electrical! Thanks Kerry
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Postby keithcross » Thu Jan 27, 2005 12:43 pm

Hi

I wired it by connecting to the following.

Make up a 2 wire loom that will reach from the battery to where you are going to position a 12 volt spotlamp relay, I fitted mine behind the headlaight fairing.
Connect one of the wires from the above loom to a good chassis earth or the battery negative (-)
Connect the other end to the earth connection of the relay, taking another wire off of it and connect to the earths for the spotlamps.
Connect the other wire in the loom to one side of a fuse holder (leave fuse out for now)
Connect the other end of this wire to the feed connection of the relay.
Connect the live wires of the spotlamps to the switched feed of the relay
Connect the switching terminal of the relay to the high beam lamp circuit, cant remember the color right now, but it should be easy enough to find. Its the one that live when main beam is selected.
Fianlly connect the 2nd connection of the fuse holder to the posititve connection of the battery.
Install fuse.

I do not have a seprate switch for the spotlamps, as if I want to go to main beam , when I want the spot lamps on anyway.

BTW in the UK its not worth fitting spots if they are not wired this way, as if they are not then they have to be in a permantly dipped position. Makes them not worth having really.

Keith
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