flywheel puller

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flywheel puller

Postby cat » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:57 pm

Please can someone tell me what flywheel puller fits - for which other Yamaha engines?
I see in denniskirk.com catalog there's one listed for TT/XT 600, that is a 6-hole disc with 8mm and 6mm bolts, and one listed for "4-cycle XT series" that is 35mm 1.5, righthand, external, female, 3" depth :shock:
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Postby tuny » Fri Mar 23, 2007 5:45 pm

i'l look fore the pics, becaus i made one myself and its not to brag but musch better than the one's you can buy. becaus i used a mount to avoid damage to the tread on the axle
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Postby Bill Jurgenson » Sat Mar 24, 2007 12:11 am

the plate with the holes is the right one of the two.
Image
what you need most is a turned cap over the crankshaft stub to protect the end and threads or you'll be needing a new crank once the flywheel is off.
Don't be in any hurry, just tightenup - best with an impact wrench - and go do something else. Come back later and tighten some more and go away again.
Some judicious blows with a heavy soft hammer on the cente bolt of the puller will help coax but you still may have to wait over nite.
All this if the rotor has never been removed.
If you are considering removing the starter free wheel, heat the assembly on the (electric)stove or with a hot airgun good a hot first 'case the screws are "glued" in.
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Postby tuny » Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:10 am

ok, it's just quick quick metal work but, this thing works and took me about 10min. with these things, just mount centrecap over treads then pount plate over it with 3 bolts or so and (i used a puller) big bolt in the centre. now you brink some tention to the wheel and check if its parralel so you pull correct. now give it a good twist so there's plenty of tention and than heat up the centre of the flywheel smouthly (a little do not heat the whole thing !!!!) take a soft hammer and give it around some ticks. tighten up and give some good beats with the soft hamer and after just 1 i had the dam thing in my hands !! without the pulling tevice and so tested everything even with 2 persons but did nog move one mm after 10h of fucking around ! with this i alone in les than 10 min.!

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Postby keithcross » Sat Mar 24, 2007 12:20 pm

I used a car hub puller fro a local Auto shop :) Cheap and it worked. Good advce about protecting the crank thread, had to clean mine up afterwards.

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care

Postby DAVID THOMPSON » Sat Mar 24, 2007 10:49 pm

be careful when using a puller like this

i have had them and the part being pulled fly across the work shop

there can be a lot of energy built up when the part is stuck and you crank
up hard on the puller bolt :smt018

and the magnets in this part do not fair to well if you play basket ball with it
on a hard floor
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1997 MZ 660 Traveller+6/13/09 WV USA
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Postby cat » Fri Mar 30, 2007 1:43 am

Thanks, everyone. :D

Thanks, Bill - good one - "need most". ...hmmm..I wonder if I can find something, otherwise I'll have to get my friend to make one.

Tuny, excellent. Yes, I have someone who makes things, but he's always too busy.

Keith, the car pullers - GM/Chrysler/etc, harmonic balancer pullers; all the ones I saw had various non-metric bolts. (Something that pisses me off about the Snap-on catalog, by the way.)

:D
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Postby keithcross » Fri Mar 30, 2007 6:00 am

The puller I used was for smaller hubs, for example a mini, and all parts were made of steel.
It worked quite well in the end, but the dam thing was tight.

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