MZ/MuZ Riders

Well i sorted out a leaky fuel tap on my newly aquired ETZ 250, and while i was doing this i had the seat off, and had a quick check of the state of the electrics. it seems the bike is still fitted with the mechanical type regulator and i think the flasher unit is still mechanical as well (correct me if I'm wrong… i usually am!) and it has the large aluminium domed affair as well (rectifier?) so it seems to be as it left the factory.. the bike starts and runs fine.. although a little cold in the morning to get going.

I took it out last night for a decent run to my girlfriends about a 10 mile run there n back, the flashers seemed very erratic either not working at all under 3000rpm… or flashing wildly either to fast or to slow. and the headlight could be described as a candle in a jar. it also conked out a couple of times.. and i had to set the ignition to the central position to get it to start again, i only had indicators if the ignition was turned to the 1st position on the left (the half cog with electric bolt symbol) if i turned it to the second position on the left (the full cog symbol) the indicators wouldn't flash or did so very very poorly. now please forgive my ignorance of these bikes, i haven't owned one for oh 20yrs nearly… last was a supa 5 and i didn't really tinker with it, back then i let others do that.

Im guessing the bikes either not charging correctly.. hence the dim lighting getting worse as time went on.. or the mechanical regulators etc are past there best. i do plan on changing them for more modern electronic versions as and when i can get them.. i am still trying to work out the best solution. does anyone know of a plug and play replacement for the flasher unit and regulator / rectifier? something that already has the correct amount of pins, and does not require butchering the wiring loom.

I am thinking of fitting a burwins electronic ignition.. but there site does not have a price for it. nor can i find any other info on price online. so if anyone knows how much it is.. id be grateful! i need to get the electricals of this bike sorted, as i intend on touring on it in the summer months, its also due its MOT in july.. wonky indicators is a automatic fail! is the dynamo DC? i would like to fit led brake and tail lights to reduce power draw, and fit a halogen bulb to the headlight. same with indicators, i do know i would need a led friendly flasher can to do this. so am hoping others have already done this mod and can point me in the right direction.

Not sure if I would bother with an elctronic ignition , there is not a lot wrong with a set of points for road use. As for a regulator I used to use a lucas one which was cheap and cheerful but I couldn't tell you which one it was.
EDIT http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/mods/mod_12vreg.html ( and look at the other info on the site)
The MZ shop has this one which is plug and play http://www.themzshop.co.uk/product/12v- ... torcycles/
Any 12v flasher relay should work, but if you are changing to LEDs you might find that these are rated at 10W rather than the 21W that old school bulbs are, and require a different relay. TBH I never had problems with the power output of the ETZ electrical system so would not have thought of resorting to LEDs, 180W should be enough to power everything.
Check the state of your wiring, corrosion on connectors eats watts
Also check your battery. A lot of electrical problems come from a battery that is not holding charge properly. Seems OK until you switch everything on then the bike dies

I would hazard a guess the battery needs a proper charge, or the charging system has failed.

But start with the simple things first, Top up the battery cells, give it a good charge if you have one (if you don't have one, go for a long spirited ride!)

well i ordered a MZ ETZ specific electronic regulator, plug and play replacement, gonna order a LED brake and taillight (its the earlier dual lamp setup on my bike) fit the halogen bulb, charge the battery, check the alternator is functioning correctly, only question is what electronic rectifier works on these bike, also ordering a burwins electronic ignition on friday.. the guys are away on holiday until then. I'm gonna checkover the charging system. but i need to MOT my Suzi GS500 on thu, so for now I'm gonna be busy checking it over for its test.

Thanks for the pointers guys.

do make sure that everything has a good ground..
most of the problems i have had over the years ...were
bad ground or corroded connectors

dave

Although it looks a bit archaic, the regulator is just a series of diodes, like you'd find on the back of a car alternator. There are no moving parts and so it's actually "solid state" already! They're not prone to failure, so I wouldn't bother replacing it as a matter of course. There's a pretty clear explanation of how to test a bridge rectifier with a multimeter here: http://www.marshallforum.com/workbench/ ... r-bad.html

Thats the rectifier... the regulator is the mechanical tin box thing!

mr_luke wrote:

Cerberus73 wrote:well i ordered a MZ ETZ specific electronic regulator, plug and play replacement...

...only question is what electronic rectifier works on these bike.

OK I'll give you that... BUT

mr luke wrote:Although it looks a bit archaic, the regulator is just a series of diodes, like you'd find on the back of a car alternator.

I call it a draw!

Dammit!

Paul Simon had a SONG "50 ways to leave your LOVER"

I would bet there are close to 50 ways to build an electronic regulator or a mechanical regulator
for a motorcycle

most of them too complex and expensive

dave

well i have Scotland's largest bike breakers on my doorstep.. so i think i will try and work out what rectifiers work or can be made to work after i consult my trusty wiring diagram. hell they may even have a complete system off a later 251 or saxon that will just fit right on, I'm on the hunt for a 251 head and barrel to be bored out or a 301 setup to take the bike to 300cc anyways. all i know is i need the bike to be a paragon of reliability. as i plan to use this bike on camping trips up into the highlands where the nearest garage can be 50 miles away. and bike shops are non existent… let alone mz friendly ones! (most won't look at a MZ these days)

Is there something wrong with the rectifier you have? If not why replace it with something else unknown? Agree with changing the regulator as the mechanical ones can drift but a rectifier either works or not. And one of another bike is just as likely to fail when 100 miles from help as the original.

Spend your money on a Greenflag membership!

I took my TS250/1 on the 1990 Donkey Tour. England-Belgium-Holland-Germany-Poland-Czechoslovakia then went on thro Austria down to Bolzano in Italy then all the way back up. Bike was all original apart from a electronic ignition unit.... which died . Luckily I had a set of points with my spare plugs so reverted to them and got back no problems. My 301 took me all over the UK, Ireland,Germany, Holland. One of the last with points and mechanical regulator and never had a problem with the eletrics.

no it seems to be ok at the moment. except for the indicators either flashing to fast, to slow, or not at all. the charging light comes on at low rpm as well occasionally. seems to go off once in gear and with a bit of throttle, headlights just seem a bit pathetic.. i could see if it was a 6v bike, they usually have poorer lighting. but she's a 12v.

I had a old kawasaki KH125 that had similar issues with indicators, but after fitting a good rectifier/regulator and a new flasher can it sorted its issues out.

You're barking up the wrong tree fitting a different rectifier. I've NEVER known one fail, nor know anyone who has.

Now, the regulator is a different beast, and it's worthwhile changing it to an electronic one equivalent to a Lucas NCB403 - here http://www.woodauto.com/Component.aspx?Ref=VRG3639

Comparing the MZ electrical system to a small Kawasaki, and extrapolating that into a list of things to change to improve reliability isn't helping you, they're very very different.

Have you tried putting a volt meter around the system to see what voltages you're getting? Before that, you're fault finding with one hand tied behind your back.