MZ/MuZ Riders

I have in intermittent fault on the ignition switch on my Trophy Sport, the engine will cut out and the light goes out, with a bit of fiddling I can get it to work again, I have sprayed it with WD40 but this doesn't seem to help, is their a cure? or will I need to replace it?.

ronseagoon wrote:I have in intermittent fault on the ignition switch on my Trophy Sport, the engine will cut out and the light goes out, with a bit of fiddling I can get it to work again, I have sprayed it with WD40 but this doesn't seem to help, is their a cure? or will I need to replace it?.

I have not done it on an MZ per se, but on jap bikes I have ...
The lock assembly is a mechanical system.
At the bottom of that there is a plastic screwed on fitting with a screw driver type slot, and @ the bottom of the lock cylinder is the corresponding counterpart - aka - a screwdriver head (BTW I am describing a kawi KZ1000 type setup here, but they are all similar).

Electrical issues in the ignition lock result as a by product of the electrical part either getting corrosion, or getting loosened from the lock cylinder or well, even @ the 4 prong connector that comes out of it.

So the answer to the question as is the case 99% of the time ... open, clean, lubricate, re assemble and try it now. The above info just is to say why you need to do that.
You can lube the lock's mechanical system from the top, and when you have it out you can sit it on its head, side and bottom alternatively to get lube in all the spots via gravity. The plastic assembly fitting to the under side of it, actually is better lubed with di-electric grease. You want lubrication, water resistance and electrical insulation. However you would need to open it and you need to be careful to not break it when opening or losing the little spring and the ball etc etc.

Cool.
Srinath.

OH BTW, the lock assembly atleast on Jap bikes is bolted into the triple clamp using breakaway head bolts with no loctite. Bolts that are sort of this flanged kind and a head, but between the 2 they are sorta necked. They bolt em in, and tighten them till the neck breaks, leaving the flange and the bolt holding the igntion lock in. They will need to be carefully drilled out. Oron ocassion I have been able to insert a dremel cutting blade where the lock meets the triple clamp and cut the bolt out. You can put i na washer to get it back to that same original location.

Cool.
Srinath.

I have had some success by removing the switch and soaking it in WD40 ( I buy it by the gallon) and working the switch back and forth. Then wash it out with switch cleaner.
To take the switch apart you need to drill out the hollow rivets that hold it together. These can be replaced by nuts and bolts when you re-assemble the switch. Never done it myself and if you lose any of the little bits inside you will need to buy a new one anyway!

Try not to wd40 the electrical part of this. It will wash out the little wisp of dielectric lube its got ... But then again, some lube is better than "used to have di-electric lube".

Cool.
Srinath.

In my experience you can dismantle the ignition lock,by drilling out the rivets and replacing them with small screws as has already been suggested,and give it a thorough clean ...but the chances are the problem will recurr,so its false economy,IMHO you would be better off buying a new lock/key if you can.

a bad relay 30 on the wiring drawing can make it act like a bad switch also
relay 19 on the 125cc 4 strokes drawing is about the same
this relay supplies the whole bike with electrons
dave

No relays on a Trophy Sport... and any dialectric lube is likely to have disappeared over the last 40 years!

therealche wrote:No relays on a Trophy Sport... and any dialectric lube is likely to have disappeared over the last 40 years!

Oh 40 yr old ... maybe they never had dielectric lube those days ...
It may not follow my design pattern too, I have never been in anything older than the mid 80's.

Cool.
Srinath.

therealche wrote:I have had some success by removing the switch and soaking it in WD40 ( I buy it by the gallon) and working the switch back and forth. Then wash it out with switch cleaner.
To take the switch apart you need to drill out the hollow rivets that hold it together. These can be replaced by nuts and bolts when you re-assemble the switch. Never done it myself and if you lose any of the little bits inside you will need to buy a new one anyway!

I sprayed WD into the switch and left it for a while then cleaned it out with switch cleaner as you advised, I went out for a 20 mile run and have had no problems with it so far.

That's good.... but start saving up for a new one!

therealche wrote:That's good.... but start saving up for a new one!

Thanks! have you had this problem yourself?

When I had a succession of Supa5s ... all used abused, stored outside in all weathers, I had a couple of switches pack up, and have come across a few when working on mates bikes. Get a new one and it will last you another 40 years... probably a lot more as MZs now live in garages!

therealche wrote:When I had a succession of Supa5s ... all used abused, stored outside in all weathers, I had a couple of switches pack up, and have come across a few when working on mates bikes. Get a new one and it will last you another 40 years... probably a lot more as MZs now live in garages!

My Trophy Sport is 1972 so it's approx 41/42 years old, I guess it could be time for a new Switch.