MZ/MuZ Riders

Had the exhaust manifolds off my Baggie last night, and found that the welds inside the pipes are very "gobbed up", and are restricting the exhaust in a big way! I took a dye grinder to them with a carbide bit, and ground at least 3/16ths off of the welds, thus opening up the pipes and providing way better flow! For all you guys out there running aftermarket cans, you can take it up a notch further by doing this simple procedure! Beware, however, that you don't want to take too much off, as that will cause a weak weld joint, and could possibly crack.
The best part is, it's free!!!!!

kerry wrote:Had the exhaust manifolds off my Baggie last night, and found that the welds inside the pipes are very "gobbed up", and are restricting the exhaust in a big way! I took a dye grinder to them with a carbide bit, and ground at least 3/16ths off of the welds, thus opening up the pipes and providing way better flow! For all you guys out there running aftermarket cans, you can take it up a notch further by doing this simple procedure! Beware, however, that you don't want to take too much off, as that will cause a weak weld joint, and could possibly crack.
The best part is, it's free!!!!!

I saw that, I even took photos (see my gallery/album). Mine have a few spots of weld splatter - ok, they're tiny, the welds themselves are of an issue.
I've been wondering what to use. What size/shape is the carbide bit you used? I was looking at a catalog and wondering if it wouldn't be better to use a small abrasive roll...?

I want to write to the...tunebike.de and ask them if their Powerheaders are better in that way.

When I first started the material removal, I was using an abrasive drum shaped bit for my dye grinder.....it was working, but it was taking forever! So I switched to a cone shaped carbide bit, which sped the process up 10 fold! Then I switched back to the abrasive drum to smooth things out at the end. I also used a 3/4 inch socket to sort of measure my progress as I went along. At first, the socket would just rest on top of the weld (shelf) but when I was done the socket was actually penetrating the opening (sounds kinda kinky) and would almost fit all the way in. I figure that I increased the diameter of the pipe openings by roughly 20% or more.I could have gone further, but I wanted to keep it good and strong so I wouldn't get any cracking. It should really help get those spent gasses outta there! THUMP!!!!!

if you weld there is a good read
a friend uses this and things he welds are a work of art

http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/dhc2000.htm

http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search? ... ubmit.y=11

i have not had any dealings with these companys but

i do like the henrob/dillon welding outfit
and have used it a few times but to many bucks
for the amount of times i would use it

More about this, with pictures:

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/gordmods.asp

I found this while I was trying to find out if it was possible - or suitable - to do this with a Dremel tool.