MZ/MuZ Riders

I'm a newbie to dualsport/enduro bikes. That said, I read a few different things on the net about "uncorking" various bikes.

I take that to mean that the stock exhaust and intake are too restrictive. The Baghira seems pretty peppy to me...but I thought I should ask anyway: Does the Baghira need uncorking?

Thanks,
e

not really. a pipe and jetting will get you a few HP, but not much....

thanks.

Dynojet do a re-jet kit for the XTZ660 Yam' carbs, about 88 English pounds. That with a better pipe and opened up airbox, set up properly would do it a world of good. All depends how much you want to do / pay for.

e wrote:The Baghira seems pretty peppy to me...but I thought I should ask anyway: Does the Baghira need uncorking?

I had an exchange recently discussing fuel economy with someone who's jetted up their Skorpion Sport - for what gains they have in performance they have lost at least 30% of their fuel economy.

I'm getting around 60mpg with about 50% freeway riding.

AndyDent wrote:

e wrote:The Baghira seems pretty peppy to me...but I thought I should ask anyway: Does the Baghira need uncorking?

I had an exchange recently discussing fuel economy with someone who's jetted up their Skorpion Sport - for what gains they have in performance they have lost at least 30% of their fuel economy.

I'm getting around 60mpg with about 50% freeway riding.

My Sport is stock, and I get around 50 (Imperial) mpg. My Baggi is on stock jetting with a Carbon Can Co end can , and gets around 44 mpg. But that is used hard once warmed up!

I did read somewhere that once you think you have more power, you will ride to make the most of it - and then use more fuel!

If on the other hand, you think you are getting better fuel economy, you will ride more carefully, and it becomes true!

Not sure how relavant that info was, but as far as I was aware, if you change your exhaust, you will get more omphh!

F0ul

F0ul_Oli wrote:.... but as far as I was aware, if you change your exhaust, you will get more omphh!
F0ul

The Baghira exhaust weighs about 20kg, so if the new exhaust is not more restrictive, the bike will be quicker.

roge-a-billy wrote:Dynojet do a re-jet kit for the XTZ660 Yam' carbs, about 88 English pounds. That with a better pipe and opened up airbox, set up properly would do it a world of good. All depends how much you want to do / pay for.

Why are those kits so expensive?! ...Is that the one with the drills? (Why do these carbs [apparently] have jets that can't be replaced?) Surely all it would involve is getting main jets and pilot jets one and two sizes bigger -- or finding out what size the drills are and buying the drills?

Re-jetting by drilling jets... it sounds like something from the "good ole days".

Remove the EVAP system, that helps starting and throttle responce too

dmon722000 wrote:Remove the EVAP system, that helps starting and throttle responce too

what EVAP system?


I've found out since that they are removable jets, you just can't get different sizes. I think Dynojet are slack...given the price. Ti needles are all very well, but they could easily get jets made - they already do get jets made, for other bikes.

I got some of the Keihin small slotted main jets for the primary carb, but...I'd rather drill stock jets, because the slotted ones are so different, like at the mouth of the jet. The flow/spray would be affected, it would be different with the slotted type, compared to the hex type, that has the opening countersunk.

If your overseas (not in the states) your bike may not be equipped (no dastardly EPA over there ) As far as drilling the jets goes.... sure its as basic as that I suppose, but I shy away from that personaly. I run a 132 main jet in the primary, for a few dollars (pounds), I'm sure you can get it done right. Also, the jet as no great affect on the "atomization" of the fuel, thats the job of the emulsion tube and needle (with their male/female arrangment takes care of all that (combined with the vaccum signal from the downward stroke of the piston)). The jet is just the gateway for the raw fuel charge entering the emulsion tube. Well have fun in your project, whatever you decide will more than likely be adiquate. My settings at sea level are:
* 132 main jet (primary)
* stock secondary jetting, was flooding too easily in slow "creeping traffic"
* Secondary carb adjusted to "come on" at 5mm or primary carb travel
* Air screw set at 5.5 turns from bottom (at sea level)
Works great all the time, every time.....

dmon722000 wrote:If your overseas (not in the states) your bike may not be equipped (no dastardly EPA over there ) As far as drilling the jets goes.... sure its as basic as that I suppose, but I shy away from that personaly. I run a 132 main jet in the primary, for a few dollars (pounds), I'm sure you can get it done right. Also, the jet as no great affect on the "atomization" of the fuel, thats the job of the emulsion tube and needle (with their male/female arrangment takes care of all that (combined with the vaccum signal from the downward stroke of the piston)). The jet is just the gateway for the raw fuel charge entering the emulsion tube. Well have fun in your project, whatever you decide will more than likely be adiquate. My settings at sea level are:
* 132 main jet (primary)
* stock secondary jetting, was flooding too easily in slow "creeping traffic"
* Secondary carb adjusted to "come on" at 5mm or primary carb travel
* Air screw set at 5.5 turns from bottom (at sea level)
Works great all the time, every time.....

Thanks.
Drilling the jets... my friend has a lathe and all the drills. So, straight and clean, no problem.

You're right about the atomization, of course - thanks for setting me straight. It's the intake end that has the slot or whatever.

You say 132, not 132.5 ? (The Keihin small slotted jets that fit are 2.5 increments.) I wonder how much difference a .5 would make. I've got 3 stock 130 jets; I thought I'd drill them to 132.5, 135, 137.5. 0.5 probably makes no difference - the equivalent Mikunis come in 5 increments.

I'm also at sea level, and a similar climate (hot and humid) so what works for you should be good for me.

I have an M4 can on my skorpion. I know there are 3 advantages

1) With the M4 I can take off from a stop in 2ed gear. With stock can I can not. Not an advantage in it self but I think it shows an increase in low end torque

2) Weight reduction, stock is heavy as hell

3) IT SOUNDS GREAT!

RiverDrive wrote:1) With the M4 I can take off from a stop in 2ed gear. With stock can I can not. Not an advantage in it self but I think it shows an increase in low end torque

or a big decrease in weight.