Also added a Trail Tech Vapor Computer and Acerbis Cyclops front end at the same time..
This is what I discovered so you can copy if you wish.
I put the Baggy up on a bike jack and stripped off all the plastic, brackets wiring and speedo assemblies off the front of the bike.
I also removed the brake master cylinder and caliper from the forks and bars.
I pulled the handlebars back over the gas tank to get them out of the way.
Remove the wheel, fork legs and triple trees then remove the OEM ball bearings.
Clean the neck of the frame and you are now ready to assemble.
Obviously there was some test fitting for me at this point but based on my discoveries with my 2003 Baghira you could just assemble a copy of my front end.
Parts needed. I used a 2002 Yamaha YZ forks, lower triple tree and one wheel off a 2004 YZ 125 and another off a 2001 YZ250. From my digging around it looks like 1999 - 2004 YZ 125, 250,426 and 450 Yamahas used basically the same front end but I am not a Yamaha parts expert so please confirm this prior to aquiring a front end. I used a TAG billet top triple clamp as I already had oversize ProTapers on my bike and the stock Yamaha Top Triple clamp had 7/8 bar bosses cast into them. I purchased a TrailTech (http://www.trailtech.net) Vapor computer kit (pt number 75-200)for a YZ yamaha, Indicator dash (pt number 022-PDA) and a 700 Raptor resistor wire for the Tach (pt number 7000-1020).
A new steering stem bearing kit (moose 0410-0020) was also used.
Here is the procedure I used for test fitting the Bearings to the neck.
The Yamaha uses a taper roller bearing that is not as thick as the MZ oem ball bearing and so I was concerned about clearance between the bottom of the frame neck and the lower tree. I started by installing the lower Yamaha race level with the bottom of the frame neck. I installed the lower bearing and grease seal on the Yamaha tree and test fitted it. There was a large gap between the neck and triple tree so i removed the triple tree and installed the lower bearing race flush with the bearing stop in the frame neck. When I installed the triple tree again it had what I considered to be the perfect gap to the frame neck and as a plus the MZ steering stop and the Yamaha steering stops worked. The grease seal fitted neatly to the bottom of the frame neck as well. I then installed the top race and gradually moved it further into the neck also flush with the bearing stop in the neck. I tried it higher but found that the grease seal did not fit as well. I installed the grease seal and then added two large washers that I got from the hardware store over the grease seal and under the steering stem nut. They were about 45 mm od and the inside diameter was slightly larget than the steering stem. The washers were about 3mm thick combined. I then installed the top triple clamp and installed the fork legs.
I fitted a new Karoo 2 (my favorite dual sport tire) to one of the yamaha front wheels and fitted new bearings and seals to it as well.
I thought that at this point I was going to have to have the fork legs shortened (I have some longer dog bones that I made to lower my bike fitted) and was very suprised when I found that the forks were the perfect length. My bike is an enduro so it had the full height forks originally.
I am currently running the forks with about 5 mm protuding from the top clamp.
I fabricated a bracket from some 3/16 aluminum that I had laying around to make a braket to hold the ignition switch and Trailtech computer. This was mounted to the top clamp by drilling two holes through the clamp and bolting the bracket with a couple of 8mm bolts with nylock nuts.
I used the stock speedo wiring harness to make a new loom for the Trail Tec dash board. My new dash has the neutral indicator light, High beam indicator and turn signals. This new loom uses the OEM MZ connector and plugs into the loom on the frame. I installed the TrailTech temperature sender by cutting the hose behind the left radiator by the OEM temp sender/switch and fitting it in the hose, The temp sender included in the YZ TrailTech kit fits a 3/4 inch hose and that was the most convenient.
The tach created some headaches and I was fortunate that Trail Tech are headquartered in my home town as they played with my Baggy until they solved the problem. I fitted the Raptor resistor wire directly to the black wire on the primary side of the coil and then grounded it by drilling a small hole in the engine mount plate and using a crimp connector. It is good to have a tach and shift lights on my Baggy.
I pulled a permanent 12 V supply from the ignition switch loom and then ran the speed sensor wire down the brake line.
The brakes are a combination of MZ Baggy OEM master cylinder and Yamaha Nissin caliper. I will say they are not as good on the road as the OEM brakes. I have an EBC 320 mm supermoto rotor and caliper relocation bracket for a Yamaha YZ wheel and I will be fitting that soon.
Last thing was to tuck the wiring behind the Acerbis light and hook that up, I used the MZ plugs to wire it. The light is far better with this unit than the stock light. I also used the stock front fender and moved it back by drilling two holes and slotting two of the existing ones.
Riding has been great it handles well both on and off road. This was basically a bolt in conversion and the biggest problem was the tach and the lack of brake power, both easily fixed..The steering stops work well and nothing fouls up on full lock (better turning than the MZ front end).
I recently aquired some Ohlins fork legs so they are next on the list to change..
Here are some links to pics of the front end. I tried to get some details of the bracket I used in the pictures.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1 ... Front1.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1 ... Front2.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1 ... Front3.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1 ... Front6.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-6/1 ... Front7.jpg
