TS 250/1 Clutch no longer disengages

[NinthOption]

Hello,

Basically the bike was working fine save for a gearbox oil leak due to a missing o-ring on the gear shift lever. I removed the left engine cover, and consequently the clutch actuation mechanism, in order to replace the o-ring. I put everything back together exactly as I remembered, replaced the oil and spark plug and fired it up. Everything ran perfectly. Until I realized the clutch no longer disengaged.

I then took everything apart again and started adjusting the clutch actuation mechanism every which way. I've managed to get the clutch to feel just right, just as it did before. I even, at one point, thought the kickstarter stopped turning the engine over when the clutch lever was pulled in. With it out I could feel compression, and with it in the kicker just went straight down without much resistance. However, even at this point, the wheel doesn't react to the clutch lever at all.

Any ideas? Could I have somehow tightened the clutch itself to the point it doesn't release while I removing or replacing the tachometer nut? Right now I have everything in place except the engine cover screws. Something is definitely moving under the engine cover when I pull in the clutch lever. The lever pulls in and returns just as it should, but there is no disengagement. Does anyone know exactly how the the clutch cable pulling that little arm with a worm gear actually works the clutch? I can't really figure that out and understanding that might make figuring the problem out easier.

Thanks in advance, if you'd like a bit more info please ask.

[NinthOption]

Allow me to ask another question. Could closing up the engine and adding oil make the clutch start working? When I had it running before, the clutch lever wasn't properly hooked up. Maybe in the situation, I wasn't pulling on the cable far enough and now that it is, all would be well? Thanks again.

[rodge70]

not knowing one end of a ts250 from the other i would have thought that if you have not removed the clutch then the problem lies in the actuator,at a rough guess the worm gear you mention is that operated by a lever via the cable and pushes/pulls the worm out of it's housing on to a push rod either through clutch shaft or directly on to the clutch pressure plate? there may be a small pushrod or bearing between worm gear and the clutch thats missing, i assume there is some form of return spring allowing the gear to retract without the help of the clutch springs,hope that casts a bit of light though no doubt someone will know the answer,cheers

[NinthOption]

I've just realized that the "worm gear" to which I referred might be called something else. I was basing that on a manual diagram. Basically the arm is one piece with a circle and the arm itself. The circle bit has gearing that comes up in a twisting shape and fits into complimenting piece with the opposite gearing. The part that touches the clutch itself is just flat. The other piece that screws down on to the arm piece comes out the clutch adjusting cover and is there screwed in.

[manumensa]

Hello

Some pictures:

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[manumensa]

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[NinthOption]

Thank you for the pics, they're spot on. The only difference is that on the TS250/1 the bit of the crank that comes through the center there tapers down a step to drive the tachometer.

The two spots you point to with the pen touch, and I assume their interaction is how the clutch is actually actuated. Do you know exact how this works. Is it simply by pressing on it? I couldn't push in the part on the clutch by hand, so I thought that was unlikely.

I have the manual the other pics are from, and I put things back together as close to those diagrams as possible, 6mm gap and all. Like I said, using the clutch adjuster plate and the hand adjuster I managed to get the clutch to feel right. Something definately moves under the cover. It just doesn't disengage when it does so.

Thanks again.

[manumensa]

Hello,

We need more than breakfast "Corn Flakes" to can push in the part on the clutch by hand.
In the clutch 6 resorts like this picture works for the clutch discs don´t slip - engine power aprox. 20 hp-.

We can do it by simple machines: lever, screw "worm gear" (convert a rotational force to a linear force) the engine cover
screw for multiply the mechanic force that can be applied to cluth ballbearing.
In the picture axial forces on the clutch ballbearing 16005 , the "worm gear" pressing on it.

Saludos/Regards,
Manuel